Stunt 4 Rider: 2009

28 February 2009

.::One Hander Stoppie::.

For one hander stoppie make sure your right arm extra stiff to make sure the bike doesn't drift either way when you let your left hand off.

Bring the bike up just like a normal endo(recommend: throw the bike in neutral before pulling a one-hander, that way the back end won't come down when you let off the clutch.)

Once you get to the balance point let go of the bar with your left hand.

When you remove your left hand, make absolutely sure your right hand is not going to move. You don't want to have your right arm half-bent when you throw your left arm off

Supporting your body weight with your legs is important because you can't really use your upper body to hold yourself on the bike with only one arm. To make this work, get all your weight up on the tank and jam your knees into the tank cutout to hold you up so you don't have to press on the bars.
Read more...

.::180 Endo::.

To pull this off, you really need to know how to steer an endo or stoppie well.Instead of trying to steer the bike straight, intentionally add a steering input to bring the back end of the bike around, then control that input so it doesn't come around too fast or too slow.

To launch a 180, get the bike up to the balance point with your body centered you don't want to look for the balance point when the back end is already kicking around. The higher you are, the easier it is to steer and the smoother the back end comes around.

Once you're up, start the rotation by countersteering. It takes a major input on the handlebars to make the back end come around. To get it to crank--to move all that weight around--really takes some strength. You can't just snap it around.

Avoid the temptation to roll your body into the rotation--to maintain control over the bike, you really want to stay above the bike, on top of it at all times.

As the back end starts to come around, the bike will usually stall because you don't have enough momentum behind it. More height is better, but at a lower height you need more speed to snap the bike around. One way to make it spin around faster is to use more brake.

The 180 endo is probably the only endo where you need to increase, not decrease the brake pressure as the endo progresses. At the end of the rotation, you're probably going to have to pull the brake back to that initial 80 percent to get it to come around. You're always at a dead stop at the end of a 180

------------------------------
Source:
- Matt Blankstrom : http://www.superstreetbike.com
Read more...

.::Frog Wheelie::.

Frog wheelies are a lot like High Chairs. Get up on the tank first, then clutch it up. Just like the High Chair, you have to be smooth pulling it up because you've still got all your weight over the front.

While doing frog wheelie, you don't really have anything to hold onto, so when you drop the clutch your body weight wants to go backward. That's going to make you wanna hold onto the bars even more tightly, which can cause you to twist the throttle more than you should. So to avoid unwanted throttle inputs, you have to grip tighter with your left arm than your right.

The hardest part with a Frog wheelie is putting it down. When you set the wheel down it throws all your weight forward, and when you're standing up on the tank and just holding on to the handlebars, there's not much to keep you from just flipping over the front. Not for amateurs, this trick.

-------------------------------
Source:
- Dan Jackson, www.superstreetbike.com
Read more...

.::No Hander Wheelie::.

For a Standup No-Hander, you're standing with your foot on the 12 bar and you've got your idle turned up, so you're basically using your foot to balance the bike and riding the wheelie with no hands, controlling the height of the front tire with your body and also with the rear brake. Sit-down No-Handers are a bit harder because you don't have the leverage of your foot out on the bar to balance the bike.

First make sure your idle turn up(recommendation: turn the idle up to 3500 rpm).

Get the bike up to about 11 o'clock.

Let go of the bars and just lean back and control the front tire height with a combination of body lean and rear brake.

To keep yourself ont the bike, squeeze the tank with my knees and sit back against the passenger seat. If you work your body position just right, you don't even have to use the rear brake.

--------------------------
Source:
- Dan Jackson, www.superstreetbike.com
Read more...

.::High Chair Wheelie

Sitting on the gas tank with both legs out to the side. (The easiest and safest way is to kick out one leg at a time that way you still have at least one hand on the bars.)

It's a good thing to dig your ankles to grip onto the headlight so you don't go flying off the back. Denting in the tank here really helps too because it gives you a flat surface to sit on.

Use clutch wheelie to rise the front tire.High Chairs (or anything where you are sitting on the tank) take more throttle because you have more weight over the front of the bike. But because your weight is so far forward, and because you're using more throttle, you have to watch and be smooth on the clutch so you don't get wheelspin. Leaning back helps, too, and so does blipping the gas to bounce the bike a little bit.

-----------------------------
Source:
- Dan Jackson, www.superstreetbike.com

Read more...

.::Standup Wheelie::.

Same as a sit-down, you can do this one either on power or on the clutch. I'll also bounce the bike a bit to help it up. Bouncing down on the handlebars preloads the front suspension. The energy of the fork releasing, combined with the throttle input, pops the wheel up.

Stand up first, then lean forward.

Bounce it by pushing down on my arms, causing the fork to compress.

When the fork comes back up rev a little bit (not as much as a sit down--standups take less power to lift up) and pulling on the handlebars to bring the bike up.

As the front wheel comes up, drop your body back a little bit to help it along.

Bend your knees when pulling the bike up, and once it gets up to about 10 o'clock straighten your legs and lean back.

With a standup you can hold the throttle in one spot and use your body to control the wheelie.

Same as a sit-down, you can do this one either on power or on the clutch. I'll also bounce the bike a bit to help it up. Bouncing down on the handlebars preloads the front suspension. The energy of the fork releasing, combined with the throttle input, pops the wheel up

-------------------------------
Source:
- Dan Jackson, www.superstreetbike.com

Read more...

15 February 2009

.::Basic Stoppie::.

The stoppie, also incorrectly called endo, is a motorcycle and bicycle trick in which the back wheel is lifted and the bike is ridden on the front wheel by carefully applying brake pressure after timing the "bounce" of the rear suspension. It is also sometimes called a front wheelie or wikang (wheelie belakang) in Malaysia. The word endo is short for end over end.

Body position--Keep your body centered over the bike is probably the most important aspect of pulling off a safe stoppie. You must first get your body dead-center over the middle of the bike with your head straight, shoulders squared and arms stiff. Having your body off-center is what's going to cause the back end to kick out once you get the back wheel up.

Drop the front tire pressure to about 15-20psi
Go about 30-40 MPH or 45- 65 km/h
Pull the clutch in and get on the brake. (Make the initial brake input pretty strong, about 80 percent of full braking pressure, then back off as the bike comes up.)
At the same time you begin braking, rock your body forward to move your weight out over the front wheel. Starting from the middle of the seat, bring your shoulders up and slide up along the gas tank until you're off the seat just a little.
When you move forward, make sure your body stays as straight as possible and keep your arms straight with elbows locked.
When it feels like you're getting up too high, let off the brake slowly and you'll be back on the ground.

The best way to learn, is take it slow and increase your brake pressure incrementally as your comfort level increases, you'll be floating at the balance point in no time. With most stoppies, you've got the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in. In theory, you should be able to just dump the clutch and hit the gas, and the gyroscopic force of the rear wheel spinning will actually pull the bike back down.

---------------------

Source:

- Matt Blankstrom : http://www.superstreetbike.com

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoppie

01 February 2009

.::Basic Wheelie::.

In vehicle acrobatics, a wheelie is a vehicle maneuver in which the front wheel or wheels come off the ground due to extreme torque being applied to the rear wheel or wheels. There are two kind of wheelies, clutching wheelies and powering wheelies. This step is known as clutching wheelies.Clutching is by far the best way to get wheelies up, regardless of whether the bike has enough power to power it up. While it does wear out clutch plates a little faster than normal, the difference is not significant.You can wheelie at lower rpm’s, and therefore slower speeds. This allows beginners to keep a wheelie up longer, with out being at the balance point

Drop the tire pressure to about 15-20psi
Put the bike into first gear
Go about 15 MPH or 25 Km/h
Pull in the clutch
Rev up the engine a little and drop the clutch
Repeat step 5, increasing the rpm’s, until the front end comes up close to the balance point.
Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point.
Cover the rear brake.
Stay on the throttle as it comes back down.

When bringing down a wheelie, stay on the throttle until the front end is safely on the ground. If it is necessary to quickly bring down the front end, then close the throttle at first. Then as the front is coming down, open the throttle. In that way you will have a soft landing.

---------------

Source:

- f4rider : www.stuntlife.com/forums/443-stunting-help-advice/72156-complete-guide-learning-basic.html ;

22 January 2009

.::First Thing First::.

First of all, i would like to recommend a few things to add on your bike before you learn some stunt.The reason is to protect your bike and helping you in learning some stunt.

Steering Damper: A steering damper, steering stabiliser or sprint damper is a damping device designed to inhibit an undesirable, uncontrolled movement or oscillation of a motorcycle steering mechanism (a phenomenon known in the motorcycling community as 'wobble', or in extreme cases, a 'tank-slapper'). This things is usefull while try to learn the basic stoppie, because it keep your handle straight with out use to much enegry just to keep the handle straight while doing stoppie. Other than that, if you come down from a wheelie with the front wheel crooked, it could save the bike from tank slapper.
Cage: A cage, stunt cage, crash cage or bike cage provide is a device that protect the side of your bike.In the process of learning to ride wheelies good, you will most likely drop your bike. Crash cages provide the best protection. All of these cages will most likely save you a lot of money if you crash, but none of them will completely protect your bike in every crash.
12 bar: These bars are meant to scrape the ground in place of the exhaust or tail section. Furthermore, with the introduction of the 12 bar came an array of bar tricks which all occur while the motorcycle is resting on the bar itself.one other similar device is a round bar, works on the same principle as a 12 bar as far as scraping the bar instead of the tail section or exhaust, but with one difference: The round bar is just that, it’s a curved bar that hugs the contour of the motorcycle tail section, with no flat sections.

round bar

12s bar